East by Tony Wallin-Sato


I stood beneath crepuscular rays spiraled above the soft-red granite peaks of the Sandia Mountain range. Breaking like yoke into the valley below and spilling into the darkened shadows. The Milky Way glitter faded as the constellations disappeared and the small groves of cactus scattered along the desert terrain took the place of stars. I hoisted myself on the cold steel beam and thought cactus are just stars on land

The midnight rail ride was cool for summer. A reprieve from the scorching heat and suffocating smog I experienced in the downtown LA trainyard the day before. A grey bearded drifter, who was getting drunk off Tonka Vodka, instructed me to the right locomotive that led east towards the Atlantic. 

You want to wait til sunset he hiccupped between words that’s when the bulls change shift 

I wandered around kicking rocks and throwing bottles. After a while I sat next to the drifter in silence. He handed me his bottle and we waited til a shadow creeped over the rail ties and freights.

Go towards the middle and ride a grainer. Boxcars are only for movies, kid. They don’t keep those unlocked anymore on the west coast. 

He handed me the bottle for a swig of good luck. I squatted low and followed lumber, freights, and oil until I found a grainer. Diamond patterned corner platform. I threw my pack first, waved to the drifter’s silhouette, and monkey-climbed the ladder. I made myself small, rolled a spliff, and the freight train slowly rolled out of the yard away from the sun sinking into the Pacific.

The skyline of Albuquerque appeared like a mescaline induced vision. The moon was hidden. Sweat began to precipitate around my bandana. I waited 10 minutes and figured I was close to a mile from downtown. The drifter told me to hop off at this distance because he always had a rough go pulling into any Southwest railyard. On the third freight whistle the train began to slow down and I jumped like a cannonball. I hit the hard desert ground and tumbled to my feet.

I picked up my sack, dusted myself off, and hiked towards the city center. I thought of myself as Kodo Sawaki, the homeless monk who was a famous Zen master in Japan. When my grandmother was born, Sawaki held a birth ceremony at Anataji temple. My great-grandmother had a vision her daughter was going to be the reincarnation of the Shinto deity Benten - a dragon woman of good luck. When news broke around the temple people took it seriously. At least this is the story my grandmother tells. 

She became a nun in Sawaki’s lineage after coming to the States. She was always using him as a reference for lessons when I would get into trouble, which was on a weekly basis. Sawaki and I are nothing alike. I am no Buddhist monk, quite the opposite. I’ve only been clean off heroin for 6 months and spent the last 18 months inside a locked cell. My grandmother talked me into taking a pilgrimage to clear my head and to continuously shine - kagayaki tsuzukero. She even gave me her old traveler’s pack when I told her I was going to walk all the way to see my father in Oklahoma. A man I knew nothing about. She hand-stitched the inside lining hyouhakusha, vagabond, and fed me breakfast at her home temple in Little Tokyo.

I came across a barren canal and hopped a fence. I took a concrete trail past vibrant graffiti tagged underpasses and dust-bowl era leaning shacks. This part of town reminded me of home but different. Little kids were already playing in half-filled plastic pools, busted lawn chairs were scattered about, and a makeshift adobe cooker sat in the middle of a yard like a shrine to Our Lady of Guadalupe.

One of the kids ran up to the fence line when he saw me walking by, hey mister, where are you going?

I’m headed east I said, adjusting the straps of my sack.

What way is that? As he ended his question, I noticed one of his eyes were blue and the other brown. He reminded me of a little chameleon. I pointed towards downtown.  Why are you headed that way?

To see my father

My mother said my dad went away somewhere and he isn’t coming back for a long time, his focal point shifted to his feet and he kicked up some dust.

I know what that’s like kid, but when you get to my age you can take a journey to find him, he perked up and a grin slid across his face. I gave him a thumbs up when the intersection of the neighbor’s fence stopped him from following me. 

I didn’t look back.

The heat was starting to creep across the landscape. I entered the first diner I found and ordered black coffee and wheat toast with mango-pepper jam. The waitress was friendly and resembled my friend Javier’s younger sister. Peruvian features with a graceful light step. They were a family of dancers. 

As the sunlight peeked through the half-shut blinds and patterned the table booth, I grew warm, like an electrical surge was vibrating throughout my body. I hadn’t had time to really find solid ground since hopping that freight train. The red refraction from the clay dirt, adobe styled villas, and street lined cactus carried a sort of optimism I wasn’t used to. I took it as a sign I was doing the right thing. My father wrote me a letter while I was in prison. I didn’t respond but he left an address. My grandmother says spontaneity is sometimes the best response. I’m not sure if she meant this as impulsive, but I figured if I was going to start listening to her advice, I might as well take it to excess. One of the old timers told me trauma is harbored deeper when it goes unnoticed, if I wanted to lose the weight of it I’d have to face it head on.

I left the diner after a few refills and made my way towards the highway. Since I was unfamiliar with Albuquerque, I thought it best to follow traffic. I threw out my thumb while I hiked parallel to the white line. After a mile a cop car blurted me. I wondered if it was the sign hanging from my rucksack: OKLAHOMA: BOUND FOR GLORY. I heard the cops in southern states don’t like one another.

Where you headin, son? I hated being called that.

I turned around slowly with my hands visible. You never know in such an occasion.

I’m headed east to Oklahoma the police officer nearly buckled when I answered, as if he couldn’t imagine someone ever travelling to the sooner state.

There aint nothing there. Anyways, you cant walk along the freeway, it’s illegal. 

There probably isn’t anything there but I’m hoping there is. I could see he was perplexed by what he was looking at: A young 20 something with a few visible tattoos but overall clean cut and carrying a heavy travelling pack. I didn’t know it was illegal. I was just following the white line. I’ll take the next off ramp and find another route.

I could sense he wanted to ask me more questions but a voice called out on the radio that carried more urgency. I took it as the working of Benten.

I’m not one to ever say I had pleasurable experiences with cops, but getting kicked off the freeway did work in my favor. I soon found a path that led me to highway 66, which allowed for me to walk adjacent to the on-coming cars with no hassle. An older gentleman and his grandson picked me up not long after I made it to the infamous highway. 

Where you headed?

East 

We’ll go as far as Santa Rosa

I nodded and climbed in the back.

I haven't seen a hitchhiker in 40 years. Used to do it back in my college days. That was a different time then. Hell, I was part of the Tlatelolco Movement my junior year in Mexico City. Both these countries are going to shit.

I nodded in agreement and took a swig of water from my bottle. His grandson was drawing abstract mountain ranges and disfigured birds soaring through the air. Although to him they were realism. The old man and I talked about his days protesting in the 60s while Mexican radio was on low hum. He had a thick handlebar mustache that looked as if he had an albino Microbiota fern glued below his nostrils. His grandson never said a word but filled at least 20 pages from his sketchbook. I envied his discipline. I was dropped off at a Love’s Travel Stop. The old man got gas and disappeared as if the sun swallowed them whole. 

I asked every truck driver around for a ride through the panhandle. Not a single person acknowledged me. I even offered gas money, but no luck. I decided to walk through town to another truck stop. Same problem, so I took a nap behind a dumpster. When I awoke the sky was a palette of sea purple and rich magenta.

While walking back through town to another truck stop, an 80s white Datsun flipped an aggressive U-turn after passing me. It was dented all over and nearly rusted shut. A big goofy boxer was in the bed drooling into the wind. The Datsun parked right in front of me.

You travelling through? The voice was friendly. When I walked around the front, I saw an equally goofy man wearing a baseball cap with the bill folded up. His hair was shaggy with bits of purple and blue dyed in.

Yeah, headed east

This place is hard to get picked up in. Jump in the bed and you can stay with me, my wife, my daughter and father-in-law. I’ll bring you back to the truck stop in the morning.

So, I did what any sane and level headed person would do. I jumped right next to the boxer and road along a few dirt roads with a stranger promising shelter.

My name is Dizzy and that there is Dynamite. He was yelling through the small window that separated the back of the truck and the inside.

Dynamite? I yelled back

Named after my childhood friend who passed away a few years back.

We made a sharp right turn down an even dustier dirt road full of tire sized potholes. We were just close enough to see a few blinking lights from the town, but other than that nothing distinguishable. The sun was just a semi-circle beneath the red clay earth. After a few bumps Dizzy took another sharp right through an open gate. I could see little markings on both sides, as if kerns for a vehicle. 

We’re here he stopped, banged twice on the door and jumped out. Dynamite followed after. When I jumped out of the bed and I saw a big house sized dome connected to a warehouse looking building without a fourth wall.

This is an Earth home. Made of completely recyclable material. We grow our own food and collect the rain for water. The house’s structure is made of used tires, believe it or not.

I was amazed at what I was seeing. Dizzy guided me around the house and pointed to the found material he had used to help as a foundation for the dome. When we walked around the entire home, his daughter ran out and jumped into his arms. His wife was at the door entrance with some kind of green root vegetable and a butcher’s knife. Beside the door mat was a wooden broken plank. I walked over to it and dusted it off. The sign read Oklahoma.

I had never been to Oklahoma, so who am I to say this wasn’t it.